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M-2000

 

  • Hydrants
  • Description
  • Parts
  • Installation
  • Maintenance
  • Related

 

m2 450x350

 


Standard 3/4" M-2000

Inlet - 1" NPT
Outlet - 3/4" Hose Thread Adapter
Stainless Steel Operating Rod Thru Teflon Packing
1" Galvanized Stand Pipe

Model No.UPC Bar Code (Qty. 1)Pipe Connection x Pipe DepthStand pipeOverall LengthApprox. Wt./Lbs.Purchase
Model: MP7501 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01930 3 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 1' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 44" Weight: 8
Model: MP75015 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 04460 2 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 1-1/2' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 50" Weight: 9
Model: MP7502 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01932 7 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 2' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 56" Weight: 10
Model: MP7503 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01934 1 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 3' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 68" Weight: 12
Model: MP7504 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01936 5 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 4' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 80" Weight: 14
Model: MP7505 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01938 9 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 5' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 92" Weight: 16
Model: MP7506 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01940 2 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 6' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 104" Weight: 18
Model: MP7507 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01942 6 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 7' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 116" Weight: 20
Model: MP7508 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01944 0 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 8' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 128" Weight: 22
Model: MP7510 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01946 4 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 10' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 152" Weight: 25
NOTE: The length of hydrant you need depends on the depth the water lines are buried in your area. If water lines are buried 4' you need the MP7504 - 4' bury below ground 32" above ground or 6'-8' total length.

 


Standard 3/4" M-2000 with Hose Adapter

Inlet - 1" NPT
Outlet - 3/4" Hose Thread Adapter
Stainless Steel Operating Rod Thru Teflon Packing
1" Galvanized Stand Pipe

Model No.UPC Bar Code (Qty. 1)Pipe Connection x Pipe DepthStand pipeOverall LengthApprox. Wt./Lbs.Purchase
Model: MP7501A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01931 0 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 1' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 44" Weight: 8
Model: MP75015A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 04459 6 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 1-1/2' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 50" Weight: 9
Model: MP7502A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01933 4 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 2' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 56" Weight: 10
Model: MP7503A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01935 8 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 3' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 68" Weight: 12
Model: MP7504A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01937 2 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 4' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 80" Weight: 14
Model: MP7505A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01939 6 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 5' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 92" Weight: 16
Model: MP7506A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01941 9 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 6' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 104" Weight: 18
Model: MP7507A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01943 3 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 7' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 116" Weight: 20
Model: MP7508A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01945 7 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 8' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 128" Weight: 22
Model: MP7510A UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 05655 1 Conn x Depth: 3/4" x 10' Bury Stand Pipe: 1" Galv. Length: 152" Weight: 25
NOTE: The length of hydrant you need depends on the depth the water lines are buried in your area. If water lines are buried 4' you need the MP7504A - 4' bury below ground 32" above ground or 6'-8' total length.

 


 

 

M-2000 Series & M-2000A Series Only No-Lead Noncorrosive Hydrant Since 1981

 

Features & Benefits

The M-2000 Series & M-2000A No-Lead Frost Proof Yard Hydrants gives year-round water service that drains below the frost line when shut off.  Only Merrill Manufacturing™ builds in more benefits to give you the best value in the industry.

* 1) Lever Control operates by cam principle and pulls straight on operating rod, provides variable flow from trickle to full flow without lock to hold lever.

Benefit - Variable flow with no lock that can rust in place.

M-2000 Yard Hydrant Features Diagram

2) Draw Straps are made of 1040 high carbon hot rolled steel which is much harder (Brinell 175/200) and stronger.  This greatly reduces wear of straps and eliminates side pull on operating rod.

Benefit - Longest operating life.

* 3) Stainless Steel Operating Rod is ground and polished and will not cut out packing and packing nut like the brass rod used by other companies.

Benefit - Best material for operating life.

* 4) Fiber Reinforced Thermoplastic Head greatly reduces breakage of brittle cast iron, eliminates machining, painting and corrosion.  Provides consistent, precise parts and a long life.  Made of Zytel® ST (supertough) by DuPont™, one of the "World's Toughest Thermoplastics."

Benefit - Time proven design takes years of abuse.

* 5) Nozzle on Head has standard 3/4" hose thread molded on the outside and has 3/8" NPT thread molded into the inside, or an optional brass hose adapter is available on M-2000A Series.

Benefit - Standard hose fitting thread.

* 6) Pivot Connector with Two Nuts provides simple positive adjustment and eliminates unreliable set screws used by other companies.

Benefit - Adjustable for years, not like rusted in set screws.

7) Galvanized Pipe has no exposed threads subject to the weather.

Benefit - No exposed steel on pipe to rust.

8) One Piece Plunger uses double seal design to assure positive shut-off even when foreign particles are present.  Plunger positively opens drain to prevent freezing, and positively closes drain even at slow flow rates.

Benefit -  Economical design that still closes drain hole.

* 9) Long Life Plunger is molded with ethylene propylene material that is self-lubricating and will not bond to brass valve body like rubber plunger used by other companies.

Benefit - Longest operating life in one piece design.

* 10) Heavy-Duty Celcon® Valve Body eliminates corrosion in any water condition and provides a long life.  Celcon® has been used in similar parts for over 50 years.

Benefit - High water flow with economical design.

11) Locking Eye on head and lever allows hydrant to be padlocked shut when not in use.

Benefit - Protects from waste of water.

* 12) Swivel Parts permit withdrawal of moving parts without digging up hydrant.  Nothing in head assembly to disconnect or adjust when removing, simply unscrew entire head assembly from galvanized pipe and pull up valve stem with plunger for inspection.

Benefit - Very simple repair, easily done at ground level.

 

* Exclusive Merrill Quality Features

M-2000 Series Yard Hydrants are packaged 12 per master bundle

 

M2000parts800

M-2000 Parts List

Model No.UPC Bar Code (Qty. 1)Part DescriptionPurchase
Model: PKMP UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 08819 4 Description: Parts Kit PKMP (Includes G-35, P-115, A-250 and OR110)
Model: PKPF UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 02217 4 Description: Parts Kit PKPF (Includes G-20(1 pair), G-25, G-30, G-35, P-115 and OR110)
Model: PKB UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 02214 3 Description: Parts Kit PKB (Includes G-20(3 pair), (2)G-25, (3)G-30, (3)G-35, (2)G-45, (3)P-50, (3)P-115 and (3)OR110)
Model: P-1 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01978 5 Description: Head
Model: P-2 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01988 4 Description: Head Plug
Model: HBA750 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01682 1 Description: Hose Adapter (optional)
Model: P-10 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01979 2 Description: Lever Casting
Model: P-15 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01985 3 Description: Lever Bolt & Nut
Model: G-20 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01514 5 Description: Draw Straps (Per Pr.)
Model: G-25 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01515 2 Description: Pivot Connector & Nuts
Model: G-30 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01522 0 Description: Packing Nut
Model: OR110 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 09120 0 Description: O-Ring
Model: G-35 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01523 7 Description: Valve Stem Packing
Model: P-40 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01992 1 Description: Valve Body
Model: G-45 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01531 2 Description: Stainless Steel Rod
Model: P-50 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01994 5 Description: Steel Connector
Model: P-56 UPC Bar Code:   Description: 3/8" Operating Rod
Model: P-60 UPC Bar Code: Description: 1" Galv. Pipe
Model: P-115 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01982 2 Description: Plunger
Model: P-120 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 01984 6 Description: Head Assembly Parts No. P-1, 2, 10, 15, 50, G-20, 25, 30, 35, 45, OR110
Model: A-250 UPC Bar Code: 6 42367 07720 4 Description: Container of Silicone Lube

Related Products

Model No.Part DescriptionPurchase
Model: RBHE75 Description: 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHE100 Description: 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHEL100 Description: 1" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow (Extra Long Barbs)
Model: RBHE1000 Description: 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHEL1000 Description: 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow (Extra Long Barbs)
Model: RBHE1025 Description: 1-1/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHE125 Description: 1-1/4" NPT x 1-1/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHENL75 Description: No Lead 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHENL100 Description: No Lead 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHENL1000 Description: No Lead 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: SSHE75 Description: Stainless Steel 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: SSHE100 Description: Stainless Steel 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHT75 Description: 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHT7510 Description: 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHT1000 Description: 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHTNL75 Description: No Lead 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHTNL7510 Description: No Lead 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHTNL1000 Description: No Lead 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: SSHT75 Description: Stainless Steel 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: SSHT7510 Description: Stainless Steel 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee

 

 

M-2000 Yard Hydrant Installation Instructions

Almost NO Reason to Ever Dig up a Hydrant to Fix a Leak
Under no circumstances should Merrill Manufacturing Yard Hydrants drain back into well or drinking water supplies!
*Merrill Manufacturing disclaims all liability of any kind and voids the hydrant warranty for installations of this product where it can or could drain back into a drinking water supply.

Step 1: First be sure water line on which hydrant is to be installed has been thoroughly flushed to wash out foreign particles.  Merrill Manufacturing will not warrant or accept any responsibility if the water line is not flushed out prior to attachment of hydrant.

Step 2: Be sure the hydrant is installed with provision for drainage below the frost line.

  • If hydrant is installed in a pit, the pit must have an open bottom or some form of drainage.
  • If hydrant is buried in the ground, a few tile can be laid in gravel or coarse material to form a field system for the drain.
  • If hydrant is buried in the ground and no tile are used, be sure to put a quantity of gravel, crushed rock or some coarse material, not sand, around the drain of the hydrant.  This will permit faster and better drainage.

Step 3: Important - If hydrant is buried in the ground, it is a good idea to put a brick or large stone under the hydrant, because when the hydrant drains and this subsoil becomes wet, it will allow the hydrant to settle and thus put a strain on the pipe to which it is connected.  A brick or stone would carry this weight.

Step 4: To connect the hydrant to the water line, just turn it onto the male thread connection for which it is intended.  Merrill Manufacturing™ has hydrant ells and tee fittings available for connection to flexible poly pipe.

  • CAUTION: When the hydrant is tightened, be careful that it is not tightened so tightly that the hydrant head or valve body will be screwed further onto the pipe and thus change the adjustment of the hydrant.  If this should happen, refer to the adjustment section for the proper adjustment.

Step 5: Important - Before backfilling the trench, turn on the water.  Then turn on the hydrant by raising the handle to let the water flow.  If the hydrant is not working properly, refer to the adjustments below.  Merrill Manufacturing™ will not accept any responsibility for digging up the hydrant if the installer fails to flush out the water line before attaching hydrant to water line and to check the hydrant for proper operation before backfilling the trench.

WARNING: If the ground freezes at or below the bottom of this hydrant, your warranty is void and damage due to improper installation or act of nature is not covered by manufacturer.

CAUTION: Use wrench on valve body and fitting only!  Do not use wrench on this stand pipe!  Additional tightening or loosening will change adjustment of hydrant and could restrict water flow or may make the hydrant inoperative.

CAUTION: If the hose is attached to the nozzle of the hydrant when hydrant is shut off, back siphoning can occur if end of hose is left in container of liquid.  The end of the hose must be left open to the air so hydrant can drain back. 


Yard Hydrant Adjustment Instructions

af Install6The correct adjustment of this hydrant can be checked by raising the lever.  Water should not run through the hydrant until the lever passes the half way point or horizontal position.  When water is flowing through the hydrant it should shut off when the lever comes down to the horizontal point.  The last half travel of the lever in closing the hydrant opens the drain hole.  Also in turning the hydrant on, the first half travel of the lever puts the cup seals in position to positively close the drain before the water is turned on.  This advanced patented feature is found only in the Merrill Manufacturing Anyflow Hydrant.

 

Adjusting the plunger in the lower valve body

• To lower the plunger assembly into the valve body, take the G-15 bolt out of the head casting and remove the handle and G-20 draw straps (Note: draw straps are bent inward which applies pressure on the handle when opening the hydrant).  With two wrenches loosen the (2) 9/16" nuts on each side of the G-25 pivot connector.  To lower the plunger, turn the top nut upward, only one thread, then tighten the lower nut upward toward the G-25 pivot connector (or raise the G-25), then tighten the top nut.

 

• To determine if the water is not draining out of the stand pipe, turn the hydrant on and let the water flow.  Then push down the handle to close the hydrant with a cup of water covering the nozzle.  If the water in the cup siphons back through the hydrant, the plunger is in the correct position.  If the water does not siphon out of the cup, then adjust the plunger in the same way as stated above.  Then check to see if the water siphons out of the cup after adjustment.

 


 

M-2000 Series Yard Hydrant Maintenance Instructions

In maintenance, nothing is needed - but, a few drops of oil occasionally on the cam of the lever will prolong its life.

To replace any valve or plunger parts, NO NEED TO DIG UP THE HYDRANT, simply mark threads on pipe and unscrew head from stand pipe and pull up stem and valve plunger.


M-2000 Series Yard Hydrant Troubleshooting


Almost NO Reason to Ever Dig up a Hydrant to Fix a Leak

Leaking out of the packing

First tighten the packing nut a half turn while moving the handle up and down a few times.  If this does not completely stop the leaking, turn the packing nut another half turn while moving the handle up and down.  Sometimes this may have to be repeated again and again, depending on how long the leak has gone without being fixed.  Small adjustments are much better than turning the nut a full turn or more right away, as that may not be necessary.  If the adjustments do not cure the leak, a new packing piece must be installed under the packing nut.  There is no reason to shut off the water to do this adjustment.


Leaking out of the nozzle

Any Flow® Leaking out of the nozzle troubleshootingThis would mean the plunger needs to be lowered.  To do this, the adjusting nut above and below the pivot connector need to be raised one turn.  This may need to be repeated again to completely stop the leak.  Smaller adjustments are better than adjusting several turns at once, as it may not be necessary.  If three or so adjustments does not fix the leak, the plunger must be replaced.  Most likely it is damaged or worn excessively. 

Replace the Plunger

To replace the plunger, a piece of tape needs to be put around the standpipe just under the hydrant head and mark the location of the nozzle.  Turn off the water supply and unscrew the head from the standpipe and pull out the inside rod and plunger.  Replace the plunger, lubricate and install back in standpipe.  Tighten head so that the head touches the tape and likely no further adjustment will be necessary.  Test to make sure it is draining properly by holding your hand over the outlet nozzle right away after shutting off hydrant for a few seconds.  Remove hand and you should hear a sound of air rushing into the hydrant.  This means it is draining properly and should be in good working order.  If it is not, do the adjustment as described above.


Leaking out of the Drain Hole

What you need to know is if it is leaking in the "off" position or the "on" position.  These are two completely different adjustments. 

"On" Position Leak

If it is leaking when in the "on" position, the plunger may be too low which means the plunger is not coming up far enough to shut off the drain hole when the hydrant is running.  Making small adjustments at a time is more critical in this situation.  Move the adjustment nuts down a half turn only.  By going too far you will raise the plunger so much it will not shut off when the handle is down, causing it to leak out of the nozzle.  If the leak does not stop, the plunger could be worn or damaged and needs to be replaced.

"Off" Position Leak

If the leak continues when the hydrant is in the "off" position, the plunger needs a slight adjustment down.  This means that you need to raise the adjustment nuts up a half turn to make the plunger go down.  Again, if two or more adjustments does not fix the problem, the plunger needs to be replaced. 

The only circumstances in which a hydrant would need to be dug up would be damage to the valve body or standpipe due to freezing weather or aggressive soil conditions and it rusted through.  No amount of adjusting will fix this and those parts would need to be replaced.  There is no reason to ever dig up a hydrant to fix a leak.  It is a 100 to 1 odds that a hydrant needs to be dug up to be fixed.

Related Products

Model No.Part DescriptionPurchase
Model: RBHE75 Description: 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHE100 Description: 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHEL100 Description: 1" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow (Extra Long Barbs)
Model: RBHE1000 Description: 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHEL1000 Description: 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow (Extra Long Barbs)
Model: RBHE1025 Description: 1-1/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHE125 Description: 1-1/4" NPT x 1-1/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHENL75 Description: No Lead 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHENL100 Description: No Lead 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHENL1000 Description: No Lead 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: SSHE75 Description: Stainless Steel 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: SSHE100 Description: Stainless Steel 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Elbow
Model: RBHT75 Description: 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHT7510 Description: 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHT1000 Description: 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHTNL75 Description: No Lead 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHTNL7510 Description: No Lead 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: RBHTNL1000 Description: No Lead 1" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: SSHT75 Description: Stainless Steel 3/4" NPT x 3/4" Plastic Pipe Tee
Model: SSHT7510 Description: Stainless Steel 3/4" NPT x 1" Plastic Pipe Tee

 



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